Showing posts with label Dior. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dior. Show all posts
Mod Men

Another film we saw as part of the Film Society of Lincoln Center's tribute to Stanley Donen was his 1966 comedy-thriller, Arabesque -- another one of our all-time childhood favorites. We'd seen it countless times on television and VHS, so we were thrilled to finally see it in its original widescreen presentation. We weren't disappointed. The cinematography (which won Christopher Challis a BAFTA award) is stunning, and lives up the film's famous tag line: "Ultra Mod! Ultra Mad! Ultra Mystery!" The actors are shot through mirrors, sunglasses' lenses, chandelier crystals -- it's gimmicky, totally of its time, and absolutely wonderful.

The film itself is nowhere near great, but completely entertaining from start to finish. The story (which shamelessly borrows from the James Bond formula; Hitchock's North by Northwest; and, most heavily, Donen's own Charade, with Gregory Peck taking Audrey Hepburn's role as the civilian improbably thrust into international intrigue, and Sophia Loren in Cary Grant's place as the side-switching enigma) is labyrinthine but compelling, particularly if you employ a lot of suspension of disbelief. Helping matters immensely is the fact that the stars have a marvelous chemistry together, with Peck strangely appealing as the slightly ragged, frayed-around-the-edges professor; and La Loren, besides being at the absolute height of her beauty, is alternately sensual, playful and witty as the helpless pawn (or is she?) in this game of espionage.

Alan Badel is third-billed, and makes a splendidly silky, sinister, Bond-worthy villain, complete with mod shades, a closet full of Savile Row suits, and a pet falcon. But the real co-star of the film is Loren's fabulously insane, custom-designed Christian Dior wardrobe, valued at (in 1966) $150,000, and consisting of 14 eye-popping outfits (our personal favorite: the emerald green coat, leopard turban, and emerald earrings) and -- get this, shoe fetishists -- 50 pairs of shoes.

In spite of a derivative storyline, implausible situations, and characters who walk a thin line between satire and cartoon, Arabesque works because of Donen's slick, economical direction (there isn't a dull moment in its entire 105 minute running time), Challis's inventive cinematography, and the superstar power of Gregory Peck and Sophia Loren. By the way, did we mention how absolutely stunning Sophia looks? Forget the mod camera angles; Sophia's closeups alone probably secured Challis his BAFTA.

Labels:
1960s,
Dior,
fashion,
glamour,
Gregory Peck,
hair,
Richard Avedon,
shoes,
Sophia Loren,
Stanley Donen
It's Dior, it's de Havilland, it's DeLovely
Legendary screen star Olivia de Havilland began a wild love affair just as she was about to marry another man: she fell in love with the designs of Christian Dior and became a loyal client of his atelier as she prepared for her marriage to French magazine editor, Pierre Galante.

Suit from Dior's S/S 1955 collection, included in Olivia de Havilland's wedding trousseau.
Besides creating clothes for the star's personal wardrobe, Dior designed the costumes for de Havilland's film, The Ambassador's Daughter (1956), which was set in Paris; and after his death in 1957, Dior's successors, Yves Saint Laurent and Marc Bohan, designed for her pictures Libel (1959) and Light in the Piazza (1962), respectively.

OLIVIA DE HAVILLAND, wearing Christian Dior, and JOHN FORSYTHE in The Ambassador's Daughter (1956)

OLIVIA DE HAVILLAND, wearing Yves Saint Laurent for Christian Dior, in Libel (1959)
OLIVIA DE HAVILLAND, wearing Marc Bohan for Christian Dior, in Light in the Piazza (1962)
Miss de Havilland sold most of her personal wardrobe at auction 1993, generating nearly $50,000. Over 70 of the lots were couture creations from the House of Dior, spanning 1954-1974. Today, this 93 year old legend still resides in Paris, still charmingly holds court for enthralled journalists, and still looks positively regal in vintage Dior.

OLIVIA DE HAVILLAND, in vintage Dior, 2010
Labels:
1950s,
1960s,
Dior,
fashion,
glamour,
gloves,
hats,
John Forsythe,
Marc Bohan,
Olivia de Havilland,
Yves Saint Laurent
Glamorous-Leigh

She was Richard Avedon's favorite fashion subject; graced the cover of over 50 magazines within a six year span; and after her modeling career ended, ran her own modeling agency and gourmet restaurants in Paris. She was Dorian Leigh, the first supermodel (Janice Dickinson be damned), and for nearly a decade, she was one of the most photographed women in the world, appearing on the cover of Vogue no less than seven times in one year (1946).

A John Rawling portrait of Dorian Leigh for the cover of Vogue, 1946
By the mid-1950's, Leigh's fame had been surpassed by that of her younger sister, Suzy Parker; she starred in a few French films, then relocated to Paris to launch the city's very first modeling agency. Leigh was enormously successful, and there are tantalizing and scandalous tales of the former cover girl joining transatlantic forces with her mentor, Eileen Ford, to drive competitor John Casablancas out of business -- and out of his mind. Eventually, Leigh herself was "run out" of the industry, thanks to the illegal schemes of one of her five husbands, which is when she entered the restaurant business. Relocating to New York in the 1980's, Leigh penned several cookbooks, including one devoted to crepes. Her son, Kim, died at 21 by his own hand; after that, the reputed inspiration for the glamorous and hedonistic Holly Golightly became a Born Again Christian. She died of complications from Alzheimer's Disease in 2008, at age 91; but through the lens of Avedon and other genius photographers, the breathtaking elegance and mystique of Dorian Leigh will never age.




DORIAN LEIGH
April 23, 1917 - July 7, 2008
April 23, 1917 - July 7, 2008
Labels:
1940s,
1950s,
Dior,
fashion,
glamour,
hats,
Helena Rubinstein,
Irving Penn,
John Rawling,
Richard Avedon
Sometimes...
Labels:
1950s,
1960s,
advertising,
Diana Ross,
Dior,
Elke Sommer,
fashion,
George Platt Lynes,
glamour,
hair,
Marisa Berenson,
Modess,
Piguet,
Playboy,
Supremes,
Suzy Parker
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